Friday, July 22, 2016

Duplication attempt - body butter

I have some grand plans for xmas presents involving body butter, so a while ago I made a first attempt. I thought I'd go for a Body Shop-esque recipe, so I got out my mega-tub of mango body butter and copied down the ingredients.

water - okay, fine
mango butter
sweet almond oil
cocoa butter - oil phase should total about 25% for a body butter
glycerin
glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate - this is the emulsifier, exact same ingredients are available as Lotion Pro 165 from Lotioncrafter or as Simulsol 165 from Windy Point, and probably elsewhere; usage rate is 1-5%
cyclomethicone - for glide!
phenoxyethanol - preservative
parfum - smellies, </= 1%
benzyl alcohol - preservative
methylparaben - preservative
propylparaben - preservative, these are generally at </=1.5% each
xanthan gum - thickener
disodium EDTA - chealator, 0.2%
sodium hydroxide - pH adjuster (if needed)
potassium hydroxide - pH adjuster (if needed)
citric acid - pH adjuster (if needed)
CI 75120 - colourant

I subbed in ingredients I had, using the recommended usage rates to figure out how much of each to put in. I ended up with a 25% oil phase, 15% hard oils and 10% liquid oils. I used Simulsol 165 as the emulsifier at 3.5%, added 3% cyclomethicome because I love 'cones, subbed preservatives for ones I have, left out the xanthan gum (perhaps foolishly), and left out the pH adjusters because I didn't need to adjust the pH. Scented with 1% banana coconut FO from Candora, and omg! I love this fragrance. It is what sunscreen would smell like in my ideal world.

It was a normal heat and hold process with oils and water done separately. Emulsification looked normal, but the lotion didn't thicken virtually at all as it cooled. Maybe leaving out the xanthan gum was a bad idea. It was so runny! It was also very oily when applied to my legs. I feel like the 10% liquid oil was too much by a lot. My legs are dry-ish and the oil didn't sink in for probably 8 or 12 hours.

Anyway, within 2 weeks the lotion had separated. I'm not really sure why, since the glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate is supposed to be able to emulsify 20-30% oil at 2.5% usage, and I used 3.5% for 25% oils. Maybe it didn't like the preservatives or fragrance I used, or maybe it needed a thickener/stabilizer like xanthan gum. Who knows. All I know is I am addicted to that fragrance.



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